A Jerusalem Anthology

Table of Contents
Introduction 4
Acknowledgements 5
Illustrations 5
Geography of History and Belief 6
Reality Check Kathleen Kenyon (1967) 6
Convenient Proximity Alexander Kinglake (1844) 6
Antiquity/Early Middle Ages 7
A Very Early Pilgrim The Bordeaux Pilgrim (332-333 AD) 7
Speaking in Tongues St Silvia of Aquitaine (ca 385 AD) 7
Seljuk and Fatimid Period 9
Incomparable Jerusalem Al-Muqaddasi (972 AD) 9
An Iranian Pilgrim in Fatimid Times Nasir-i-Khusrau (1017 AD) 10
Crusader Times 12
Deeds of the Franks Anonymous chronicle, (1100-1101 AD) 12
A Russian Abbot in Crusader Jerusalem Abbot Daniel (Danilo) (ca 1107 AD) 13
Jerusalem in 1187 Rabbi Benjamin of Tudela 14
Mamluke and Ottoman Era Travellers 17
First Impressions of Jerusalem Harriet Martineau (1848) 17
First Glimpse Pierre Loti (1895) 19
Disappointed Expectations Gustave Flaubert (1849-50) 19
A Flat and Unimposing View William Bartlett (1850) 20
Dreary City Edouard Schuré 20
The Grand Tour to the Holy Land 22
Returning from an Excursion Buck Whaley (1789) 22
A Visit to the Governor Alphonse de Lamartine (1832-33) 22
A Grand Tour Day in Jerusalem Lady Catherine Tobin (1860) 23
Jumping Cats and Chicken Coops Mark Twain (1869) 24
The Grand Tour ends in Tourism Estelle Blyth (1914) 25
Disappointed Tourists Sir Ronald Storrs (1922) 26
Jewish Jerusalem 27
The Second Temple Flavius Josephus (93-95 AD) 27
The Wailing Wall Amy Fullerton (1872) 28
Christian Monuments 29
An Early Description Arculfus (ca 670 AD) 29
The Holy Sepulchre Buck Whaley (1789) 30
Babel in the Cathedral Pierre Loti (1895) 31
The Church of the Nativity Amy Fullerton (1872) 31
The Armenian Convent Gustave Flaubert (1849-50) 32
Muslim Holy Places 33
After the Reconquest Ibn Battuta (ca 1325 AD) 33
The Al-Aqsa Mosque Evliya Çelebi (1648) 33
The Al-Aqsa Mosque Al-Muqaddasi (972 AD) 34
The Dome of the Rock Evliya Çelebi (1648) 35
The Holy Rock Al-Muqaddasi (972 AD) 35
Personal Vignettes 37
A Fright in the Cave Isabel Burton (1875) 37
An Imperial Journey Estelle Blyth (1898) 38
Russian Pilgrims Gertrude Bell (1907) 39
A Franco-French Experience François-René de Chateaubriand (1806-07) 39
Spiritual Exuberance, Holy Fire and Cynicism 41
Disorders in the Cathedral Henry Maundrell 41
The Holy Fire Evliya Çelebi (1648) 42
Easter Fervour and Renewal Grigorii Rasputin (1911) 42
Street Life, Seasons and Celebration 44
A Cleansing Rain Arculfus, ca 670 AD 44
The Pigrimage Season Alexander Kinglake (1844) 44
Seasonal Feasts Al-Muqaddasi (972 AD) 45
Drought in the Holy City James Finn (1855) 45
Spring in Jerusalem Mary Rogers (1860) 46
Politics Consuls and Dignitaries 48
The Geopolitical Dimension Karl Marx (1854) 48
A Son is Born to Napoleon III James Finn (1856) 49
A Bishop’s Household Estelle Blyth (1914) 50
Early Twentieth-Century 51
A Stormy Entrance into Jerusalem Gertrude Bell (1907) 51
Wartime Hardship Sir Ronald Storrs (1917) 51
Despised by All T E Lawrence (1918) 52
Bibliography 53
The Writers 56